Non-separating zippers are used in the case of necklines and skirts. The material of the zipper being used also makes a lot of difference. A plastic or nylon zipper must be used for knitted garments that are lighter in weight. Metal zippers are used for bulkier garments as they can withstand heavy use. You must also be clear on how you’d like to place your zipper in the garment you’re knitting. 

You may want the zipper to run from the bottom edges of the opening all the way to the top. Another option would be to have the zipper run short, allowing the knitted garment’s exposed edge to show. For calculating the length of your zipper, you must first get the length of the garment’s opening measured.

Steps for placement of the zipper

Here are the steps to have the zipper properly placed in your knitted garment:

1. Open the zipper you want to place in your knitted garment. Then, decide which side of the garment opening is to be done first.

2. Place the knit fabric’s edge close to the zipper teeth. It must not be so close that the head of the zipper catches the fabric upon sliding.

3. By using a thread of contrasting colour, tack the zipper in place. It would be a good idea to use a long-running stitch. This will help you remove it easily when you’re done. Ensure that you’re going through the knitted fabric and the zipper. Else, the zipper might slip around.

4. Backstitch the zipper from the right side by hand using hand-sewing thread to match the knitted fabric. Your stitches must be nestled along the edge of the knitted fabric so that they’re invisible. Don’t forget to test the free movement of the zipper head. Make sure that there’s no problem opening the zipper.

5. Repeat the earlier step with the other side of the zipper.

6. Turn under the zipper tape’s end and stitch into place. When the zipper is completely installed with the top ends tacked down securely, cut off the excess zipper length.

Tips on shortening your zipper

1. Both separating and non-separating zippers must be shortened at the top.

2. If you have excess zipper fabric, you can fold it back at a slight angle. It can then be tacked down by hand-stitching it into place.

3. If you’ve shortened the zipper by cutting away the excess zipper fabric, stitch across the zipper teeth. This will prevent the zipper head from being pulled off accidentally.

Important tips for zipper placement

1. Don’t sew a zipper into a hand-knitted garment using a sewing machine. The zipper may ripple owing to the difference in tension caused by the bulk of the knitted fabric. Machine sewing may also make the knitted fabric stretch out during the zipper placement.

2. To prevent your stitching from distorting the knitted fabric, sew in the zipper carefully.

3. You can consider using the grosgrain ribbon to cover the zipper edges. This will prevent wear on the stitches that hold the zipper in place.

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You’re given the gauge by the designer to achieve the intended drape and fit in the knitted fabric. A gauge can also be used to experiment with other styles and yarns. The use of a gauge ruler is also recommended for knitting swatches. It allows you to quickly and easily get a precise measurement of your swatch.

1. Choosing a yarn

After having selected a pattern, the next step is to select a yarn for your knitting project. It begins with having a good look at the label given on the yarn. Usually, a recommended needle size and a gauge are indicated by the label. Most of the yarn companies give a vertical measurement. 

Once you’ve understood the gauge listings on a pattern and on the yarn, you can explore several options. If the yarn doesn’t fit in your budget or is a different fibre, you can choose another yarn. Different types of fibres knit up differently. You just have to stay within the gauge that has been recommended.

2. The gauge swatch

It is always a good idea to do a test before you start knitting. For the success of the garment you intend to knit, a gauge swatch is extremely important. Without the gauge swatch, you may spend many hours knitting a garment of the wrong size. Upon knitting up a gauge swatch, you’ll know whether it has greater or lesser stitches per inch. 

If it has fewer or more stitches per inch than what is given on your pattern, it needs rectification. This is done by increasing or decreasing the size of the needle you’re using for knitting. It must be kept in mind that the larger your needles are, the larger your stitches will be. In this case, fewer stitches will fit into an inch.

3. Choosing the size of your needle

The patterns usually have a note next to the required needles saying ‘or size needed to obtain correct gauge’. This is a good hint as various knitters would use different needle sizes to get a specific gauge. Your needle size would depend on whether you knit tightly or loosely. 

If you knit exactly the same way as the individual who wrote the pattern, you certainly have some expertise. It is your swatch that helps you figure out your needle size.  

4. Getting the swatch done

Taking the help of the indicated gauge, cast on the stitches within the required number of inches. To keep the swatch from rolling at the edges, knit the first inch in garter stitch. This would also make it easier to measure and have greater accuracy. 

You can then change to stockinette stitch for more inches. Get back to the garter stitch and knit an inch more. You can then take your needles out of the stitches. This is done so that the needle doesn’t affect the swatch gauge.

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1. Use swatches to know the yarn weight and colour

Back in the day, vintage wool was thinner. The double knit in many of the vintage patterns are closer to the 4-ply yarns used today. Even the worsted weight used in those times is not the same as the worsted weight in use today. You’ll need to have a look at the swatches. This is to make sure that you don’t pick a modern 4-ply yarn that’s too thin. 

Swatches also help you in knowing the appropriate yarn weight. You just can’t gauge the heaviness of the yarn by simply looking at the given yarn weight. This clearly shows why swatches are important for getting the right yarn for your vintage knitting work. 

The use of swatches would also help you in choosing the appropriate colours. Vintage patterns that date back to the early 1900s are not photographed. Many of the photographed ones would be in black and white. So, you won’t know the exact colour by looking at the hand-drawn images or black and white photographs.

2. Match the yarn’s fibre content

You must also try to match the fibre content of the yarn, which is used in the vintage pattern. Only natural fibres and their blends were used exclusively in the patterns of the 1940s. Their popularity declined only after the large-scale production of acrylic yarns. 

Using similar fibre content would give the same drape, texture, and other properties to the finished item. You’ll know how the finished item would look if you’re using a yarn having a different fibre content.

3. Make use of the gauge

The number of stitches that an inch of a fabric must have is called a gauge with regards to knitting. Gauge becomes extremely important when you’re making socks, sweaters, or any of the other fitted garments. It is, therefore, important that the gauge be matched as closely as possible. 

The commercial yarns usually indicate the gauge on the ball band. This makes it easier to know whether or not the yarn can be used for your vintage knitting work. While you’ll find a gauge on the pattern, some of the vintage ones only provide yarn weight and needle size.

4. Calculate the amount of yarn needed

To calculate the amount of yarn required, you must know the weight or length per skein of the yarn. For example, let’s say that the skeins of the yarn in the pattern have a length of 160 yards. Your requirement for the knitting work is 5 skeins. 

The modern yarn you’re substituting measures 200 yards per skein. The amount of yarn required would be calculated by multiplying the skein length by the number of skeins. So, it will be 160 x 5 = 800. You’ll get the total skeins available by dividing the total yarn by the length per skin of substitution yarn. In this example, it will be 800/200 = 4.

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There are many different types of yarn. They can be from an animal or a plant. Besides, the textures of each yarn and the style of knitting associated with it may vary. Here are some of the popular types of yarn used for knitting:

1. Cotton

This type of yarn comes from the cotton plant. India, United States, and China are the biggest producers of cotton. The cotton yarn can either be fine or heavy. As it is light and breathable, cotton yarn is a perfect choice for summer knits. It can also be used to produce potholders, dishcloths, and scrubbies.

2. Organic wool

Organic wool is obtained from sheep and is free from chemicals. It is sourced from livestock that has not been through drenches, dips, or antibiotics. Only hot water and detergent is used in the cleaning process of this wool. It is good for the environment. Another important aspect of the yarn made from organic wool is that it comes from healthy sheep.

3. Cashmere

One of the softest wool and yarn types, it comes from the Cashmere goats. The word Cashmere is the old spelling of the Kashmir state located in northern India. It is quite expensive and for a big reason. Once in a year, the Cashmere goats shed their undercoat. It is closer to the skin and needs to be separated from the outer hair. 

Unlike the wool from the sheep that is obtained by shearing, the undercoat of this goat is combed and collected. It is a labour-intensive process. Once processed, the yield of yarn from one goat is only about 4 ounces. To make a sweater, it would take yarns collected from four Cashmere goats. 

4. Merino Wool

The yarn from this type of wool is quite popular in knitting big chunky items. It comes from a distinct breed called the Merino Sheep. The wool obtained from this breed of sheep is special. It’s quite soft and doesn’t cause any allergic reactions. When blocked, the fabric knitted using this wool keeps its shape well. The yarn made using this wool is great for knitting special winter woollies. 

5. Silk

Silk yarn can be of two types, spun silk yarn and reeled silk yarn. Although the silk yarn is easy to work with, it can be slippery. Utmost care must be taken while knitting with a yarn made from silk. It gives a lovely feel to the skin and is relatively cool. The silk yarn, therefore, is perfect for knitting summer items.

6. Acrylic

Acrylic yarn is synthetic and cheaper than most natural fibres. It can be washed easily and is an excellent choice for those who’ve just got started in knitting. Sashay and Caron are the two types of acrylic yarns. They are ideal for beginners attempting to knit scarves.

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